Within the past few years, the popularity of the princess cut stones has grown steadily. The accepted mode of mounting has been to use cast or die-stuck settings with V-End prongs. This is due to the problems presented by the very pointed corners. Another, more attractive way of mounting these stones is to use a four prong setting that is used for round brilliant cut diamonds and covering the four corners of the stone with the prongs. Most four-prong setting can be used for this purpose if the prongs are thick enough and they are prepared properly (la).
Simply notching the prongs will not work since this will permit the stone to rotate out and become lost. Begin by drilling a hole int
o each prong to accommodate the corner of the stone. It shouldn't go all the way through the prong, but it should be deep enough so that the point is not touching the bottom of the hole when the stone is set. This feature traps each corner and prevents rotation. A hart bur is then used to form a teardrop shape at the bottom of the hole to give clearance f or the pavilion (1 b). Next, a hart bur is rocked from side to side to accommodate the stones girdle. The safest way to get to this point in the setting process is to order a die-struck princess mounting from Hoover & Strong. These are provided with the seat and hole precisely stamped into each prong, making the procedure quick and accurate.
The setting is usually spread apart gently to allow the stone to be slipped into the seat (lc). Then tighten the prongs around the stone by ca
refully applying pressure with a pair of pliers to , opposite prongs. Repeat this several times, avoiding strong pressure that may damage the points of the stone (ld). Next, file the back of the prongs to reduce the thickness of the tips (le). With stone setting pliers, press over the prongs very carefully, alternating to opposite sides. Do this in gradual steps until there are no gaps between the tips of the prongs and the stone.
After the stone is secured in the setting, the prong tips need to be shaped. The best method for this is to use a barrette needle file. This file should have a safety edge that has the teeth sanded away so that it will not damage the stone. This can be made quickly by rubber wheeling the edge of the file. A cup bur can also be used on the prong tips but a properly prepared barrette file will greatly reduce the risk of stone damage. After shaping, the mounting can then be polished
This method provides a secure mounting for the princess cut stone that allows more of the stone to be viewed. It's attractive and strong, offering a look that's definitely unique
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